Go-Chess Rules of Play
Object. The object of the game is to checkmate the opponent’s king.
Board and Pieces. The Go-Chess playing board is a 10 x 10 matrix of
squares, alternately colored light and dark. Ten randomly chosen squares on
the matrix are “blocked off” (colored black). Every board is different,
since a different set of ten squares is blocked off for each new game.
Unlike chess, there is no directionality to the board, i.e., no home side
for either player. Each player has a standard set of chess pieces, one white
and the other black. The pieces move and capture just as in chess, except
that pawns can move one rank or file at a time in any direction and can
capture an opposing piece that is one diagonal square away in any direction.
No piece can be moved onto a blocked off square. Queens, bishops and rooks
cannot pass over a blocked off square.
The Piece Placement Phase. There is no
predetermined initial position for any piece. Instead, the play phase of the
game is preceded by a piece placement phase, where the players select the
initial positions for all their pieces. To begin this phase, each player
selects an initial position for a pawn without revealing it to the opponent.
Any square that is not blocked off is eligible. After both players have made
their selections, the two pawns appear on the chosen squares simultaneously.
Then the two players place their second pawns in the same fashion, selecting
any available squares. The remaining pieces are then placed in the same way,
in the following order: all eight pawns, then the two bishops, then the two
rooks, then the two knights, then the queens, and finally the kings. Bishops
must be placed on squares of opposite colors.
If ever the two players choose the same square for the pieces they are
placing, they must select new positions for them but neither may choose that
square. If once again they make the same choice, they must select yet
another square and may not choose either of the two squares they previously
tried. This process continues until the two pieces have been placed on
different squares, with the stipulation that none of the squares previously
attempted for that piece are permitted. The slate of ineligible squares is
cleared for the next pair of pieces to be placed.
Kings may not be placed in check. If the kings are placed such that neither
is checked by a previously placed piece but they check each other, they must
be placed again and neither player may choose a position previously
attempted for his king. A player may select a square the opponent has
attempted for his king as long as the player himself has not attempted to
place his king there.
Determining the First Player. Unlike chess, white does not
automatically move first. Instead, the player whose king and queen are
closest together moves first. Distance between pieces is determined by
adding the number of ranks they are apart to the number of files they are
apart.
If the king-queen distances are equal, the player whose king is closest to
his nearest knight moves first. If that distance too is the same, distances
between kings and other knights determine the first player. If those
distances are again the same, the determinant is distance between kings and
nearest rooks, then kings and other rooks, then kings and nearest bishops,
then kings and other bishops, then kings and nearest pawns, then kings and
next nearest pawns, etc. If none of these criteria determines a first
player, white moves first.
The Play. Play commences and proceeds as in
chess, the players taking turns until one checkmates the other or a draw is
reached according to the standard rules of chess. There is no castling, no
pawn promotion, no initial two-square move option for pawns, and no en
passant capture. Stalemate is a draw, as in chess. If both players make
identical pairs of moves three times in a row, the game is a draw. A draw
can be declared at any time by mutual agreement, where either player offers
a draw and the other accepts.
Go-Chess Hints on Play
-
It pays to examine the board layout and begin
developing a strategy before placing even the first pawn, although
inevitably this strategy will have to be adjusted as your opponent
places pieces.
-
It is suggested that players begin by planning
possible locations for their kings and queens, bearing in mind that the
player whose king and queen are closest together plays first—a distinct
advantage. You might plan for the eventuality that the kings and queens
are equidistant by plotting locations for your knights that are close to
your king, since distance from kings to knights are the “tiebreaker”
when the kings and queens are equidistant. Seldom are second and third
level “tiebreakers” required, and so distance between kings and rooks,
bishops, and pawns should not play important roles in your strategy to
gain first move advantage. However, it often makes sense to pack a
number of pieces around your intended square for the king for defensive
purposes.
-
It may not be wise to count on being able to place
your king on a single square, since it is too easy for the opponent to
anticipate this strategy and foil it by placing a piece of his own on
this square or by checking it. It is better to plan a “pocket” of
several protected squares where the king might be placed, or even two
pockets.
-
One piece placement strategy is to be mostly
defensive, packing most of your pieces around the intended square for
the king. However, you might consider trying to anticipate your
opponent’s strategies and attempting to foil them by placing pieces of
your own amidst the opponent’s “camp,” as long as this does not entail
undue sacrifice to your own position. Since foiling a strategy often
comes at a price—placing a piece where it can be easily captured—the
merits of doing so should be carefully weighed. Placing your eighth pawn
in the middle of a pocket your opponent has developed might make sense,
whereas placing a more valuable piece there might not.
-
The relative value of pieces is not the same as in
chess, and in fact varies from board to board based on patterns of
blocked off squares. A board with many open ranks and files adds value
to rooks. If a preponderance of blocked off squares are of one color,
bishops on squares of the other color are very valuable. Knights are
very powerful since only they can cross blocked off squares, which might
be the best way — or even the only way — to attack a well-protected
king.
-
If you feel sure your opponent is about to select
a certain square for the next piece to be placed, consider selecting the
same square. If indeed you both choose that square, he will have to make
another choice. The effect is to foil his plan at no sacrifice to your
own. The danger, however, is that he will make a different choice and
your piece will wind up poorly placed.
-
Consider placing pieces on squares where they are
protected by previously placed pieces. Note that since there is no
directionality to the board, pawns may be placed in self-protecting
pairs.
-
Think twice before resigning even after giving up
a substantial material advantage. The peculiarities of a particular
board might allow you to prevent checkmate despite the disadvantage. For
example, experienced chess players automatically resign at the end of a
game where their king is up against a king and a rook. In Go-Chess,
blocked off squares might offer sufficient protection to prevent your
opponent from checkmating you in that end game situation.
